BALI                    Say "Bali," and most people think of a tropical paradise. For years, travelers have flocked to the island to admire the natural beauty that covers Bali from coast to coast. Some travelers return again and again because they can't get enough of the place. Others come and never leave. To all of them, there's no place on Earth like Bali.     Along the island's central mountain range, volcanoes rise into the clouds. Their presence is a blessing and a curse. The volcanoes make the island's soil fertile, but eruptions, although infrequent, have taken the lives of thousands.     Six hundred years ago, Islam swept into Southeast Asia. The Hindu rulers of Java fled to Bali to escape the invaders. For some reason, the Muslims left them alone on Bali. Their civilization continued undisturbed until 1597 when Dutch sailors "discovered" the island. Some liked it so much they refused to leave when it came time for the ship to sail for home.     The Dutch were only the first visitors to enjoy Bali. Now thousands arrive each year from countries all over the world. Most head for Kuta Beach right from the airport. They disappear into one of the many luxury hotels lining the ocean. Although this beach is one of Bali's best, the strip of sand is crowded with hundreds of vendors. These merchants ask tourists to buy, buy, buy everything from massages to Balinese cloth and wooden carvings. The more traditional Bali lies beyond Kuta.     Head north to Ubud, the cultural and artistic center of the island. Here, painting, carving, weaving and jewelry-making flourish. To see a sample of many styles of Balinese painting, visit the Neka Museum. Opened in 1982, the museum displays modern Balinese artwork as well as that of Western artists who make Bali their home.     Dance, too, is one of Ubud's arts. Many dances tell ancient Hindu stories. Dancers practice for hours and hours to learn the precise movements required by each dance.     North of Ubud lies the central mountain range. Here the mountain views can take your breath away. Green orchards of coffee and clove trees carpet some hillsides. Rice terraces like giant stairs cover others. Balinese are some of best rice growers in the world. Careful water management allows them to have two harvests a year. Planting rice is for men only, but whole villages get into the action at harvest time.     The hot springs at Banjar Tega, high in the cool mountains, attract locals and visitors alike. Pleasant hot water pours out of the mouths of dragon-like creatures into three pools. After a refreshing bath, many enjoy lunch at the nearby restaurant which serves excellent food for a good price.     Nearby local markets offer a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. The merchants also sell packages of fragrant spices, many of which grow on the island.     On Bali's north coast, Lovina offers beautiful sea views at dawn. Early risers at Lovina can take a boat out into the ocean to watch the sun rise over the mountain peaks. At these early hours, dolphins often appear. They jump and play in the waves around the boats.     Farther down the coast lies Bali Barat National Park. This park covers most of the western end of Bali. Hundreds of varieties of birds and other wildlife make their homes here.     One of the park's premier attractions is Menjangan Island, just off the coast. The coral reefs surrounding the tiny island teem with colorful fish and other sea life. Snorkelers and divers spend hours on the reef admiring the underwater scenery.     Bali welcomes visitors with open arms to enjoy all it has to offer. Bali is art and music, dance and drama. It's mountains and beaches and terraced rice fields. It's paradise.