Surfing is all about achieving personal fulfillment1 in a delicate balance between surfer and ocean. Aside from a serious devotion2 to the sport, surfers have also always valued individuality. Colorful characters like Whitey Harrison exemplify surfers' relaxed outlook and love of adventure. In the 1930s, Harrison stowed away four times on ships bound for3 Hawaii in order to reach the big waves for free!

　　Surfing may look easy, but lessons are recommended4 for grommets. Of course, you'll also need a surfboard and maybe a wetsuit. Once in the water, lie down on your board and paddle out to where waves start to form. After turning to face the shore, begin paddling once a wave starts to build. Then, launch5 yourself into a standing position and ride the wave. With some skill, you might find yourself inside the "Green room"—the tube of open space beneath a large wave's curl. Surrounded6 by the ocean... at one with the wave... this is the true beauty of surfing.

　　冲浪运动的最大目的，就是冲浪者在与海洋微妙的平衡当中获得个人的满足感。冲浪者不仅全心投入此项运动，还十分看重个人特性的展现。像怀堤·哈里森那种性格鲜明的人物，便具体展现了冲浪者一派轻松的模样和对冒险的热爱。1930 年代，哈里森四次坐船偷渡至夏威夷，只为了免费直冲巨浪！

　　冲浪运动看似简单，但一般仍建议初学者接受冲浪训练。当然，你会需要一块冲浪板，或

　　许还需要一件防寒胶衣。一旦下水，先趴在浪板上，朝着浪花开始形成之处划水前进。待转身面向岸边后，一起浪就赶紧划水，然后猛力站起、乘浪滑行。再加上一些技巧，你可能会发现自己置身于“绿色空间”内──也就是一阵巨浪卷起时，浪头下方的管状空间。被大海重重环绕 … 与浪花融合一体 … 这就是冲浪最美妙的地方。

　　1. fulfillment n. a feeling of satisfaction 满足（感）

　　Finally achieving something that you　e worked hard for will bring you a sense of fulfillment.

　　一直以来为之努力的目标终于实现时，一定会带给你一种满足感。

　　● 2. devotion n. a strong love for or dedication to sb./sth. 热爱

　　Because of his devotion to his country, the young man was eager to join the army.

　　这名年轻人出于对国家的热爱而急于从军。

　　3. bound for adj. phr. traveling towards a place 驶往；前往

　　I'm bound for New York in the morning, so I'd better pack my bags.

　　我一大早就要启程前往纽约，所以最好现在就收拾行李。

　　● 4. recommend v. to advise 建议

　　I recommend that you try the new restaurant on the corner; the food is excellent.

　　我建议你试试街角那家新餐厅，那里的餐点棒极了。

　　5. launch v. to put sb./sth. in motion with force 用力向前推进

　　Mr. Chen launched himself off of the diving board, flew high into the air, then landed in the swimming pool.

　　陈先生从跳水板上一跃而起，飞向半空中，然后跳进游泳池。

　　● 6. surround v. to be completely around sb./sth. 环绕；包围

　　The police surrounded the criminal before moving in to arrest her.

　　警方先包围罪犯的藏身处，再闯进去将她逮捕。

　　More Information

　　 1. individuality n. 个人独特性；个体性

　　 2. exemplify v. 作为 … 的例证

　　 3. stow away v. phr. 偷乘（船或飞机等交通工具）

　　 4. grommet n. 新手（仅适用于冲浪运动）