At one With the Waves
It's dawn on a quiet Hawaiian beach, and huge waves are rolling in. As the sun appears on the horizon,1 a few stoked surfers paddle out through the waves. For most people, cold, rough ocean is the last place they want to be at daybreak. But for surfers, this is heaven.
Surfing's ancient origins lie along the shores of Hawaii, which is still considered2 the sport's spiritual home. In the nineteenth century, long before surfing became popular elsewhere, Hawaiian chiefs were masters of the waves. They had their own private surf beaches, and rode waves on long, heavy wooden boards.
Born in 1890, Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku is one of the king kahunas of surfing folklore.3 During surfing demonstrations,4 he would often perform daring5 tricks, like standing on his head while surfing! Duke was an Olympic swimmer, a professional actor, and even a national hero. In 1925, he used his surfboard to power through rough waves and save eight people from an overturned6 boat.
生于 1890 年的夏威夷人杜克·卡那莫库是民间传说中冲浪的佼佼者。当他示范冲浪动作时，经常会表演大胆过人的特技，例如倒立式冲浪！杜克是奥运游泳选手专业演员，甚至还是夏威夷民族英雄。1925 年，他曾踏着冲浪板奋力冲破惊涛骇浪，从一艘翻覆的船中救出八条人命。
1. horizon n. the distant line where water or the earth appears to meet the sky 地平线
As we drove across the flat Texas plains, the city of Houston appeared on the horizon.
● 2. consider v. to think of sb./sth. in a certain way 认为
The Mona Lisa is considered by many to be one of the finest paintings ever made.
3. folklore n. the body of traditional stories told in a certain community or area 民间传说
According to local folklore, this cave was once the hideout of a famous bank robber.
● 4. demonstration n. an action designed to show sb. how to do sth. 示范；表演
During his demonstration, master woodcarver Prew Savoy showed us how to construct a wooden table.
● 5. daring adj. showing bravery or a willingness to do sth. dangerous 大胆的；勇敢的
In a daring rescue attempt, the divers swam down into the flooded mine in order to save the trapped miners.
6. overturn v. to put sth. into an upside down position 倾覆；翻覆
After the powerful earthquake, the city streets were full of fallen trees and overturned cars.
More Information 仅供参考，不须强记
1. stoked adj. 蓄势待发的；跃跃欲试的 （stoke 的动词本意为添加燃料，在此引申为万事俱备，准备行动之意）
2. surfer n. 冲浪者 （动词 surf 为冲浪之意，surfboard 则是指冲浪板）
3. paddle v. （用手或脚）划水前进
4. king kahuna n. 个中高手；顶尖人员 （Kahuna 原为夏威夷神话中的冲浪之神；在英文中则以 king kahuna 来形容各个领域，如电脑、运动、政治、商业等相关事业的个中翘楚）
5. power through v. phr. 奋力冲过